Wednesday, 6 November 2013

International Service Bolivia Project Visits in and around La Paz

Round two of ICS project visits in Bolivia was with an agency in the consortium called International Service. International Service has ICS volunteers in Ghana, Burkina Faso, Palestine and Bolivia, so a really diverse range of countries as well as diverse volunteers.

La Paz is the highest capital city in the world and with streets as steep as San Francisco at an altitude of 4000 metres above sea level, it's not a place to stroll around unless you're feeling like superman. So with project visits in La Paz, El Alto (much higher) and the nearby community of Mallassa in Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) my ears were constantly popping, but it was great to see such a variety of different activities.



With the same two main objectives as for my Tearfund project visits, it was really interesting to see some of the differences and similarities of a different ICS agency's programme operating in the same country. 

I spent my first morning in the International Service office, doing a presentation/Q&A type session with staff and volunteers, followed by each of the four teams doing presentations on their respective projects. I was really impressed by the critical thinking of the ICS volunteers, many of whom had strong opinions on the role of youth volunteering in international development and the impact of the work they were doing.



My first of four project visits was to a children's centre in La Paz itself, supported by ChildFund Bolivia. The main focus of their ICS volunteers' project is to deliver pilot education sessions to the children about preventable diseases with the aim of producing a preventable diseases education manual containing the sessions that have worked the best. As well as this main focus, volunteers have also committed to providing general support at the four children's centres around the city (ChildFund support a total of 50), playing games and painting murals.




The next day I visited two more projects around El Alto and La Paz. I was particularly impressed with the first project linked to a local partner organisation called Focapasi which supports/trains women to build their own greenhouses/plant vegetables to a) maintain the health and nutrition of their own family and b) sell their produce to contribute to their household income. I was impressed to see that ICS volunteers who previously had no knowledge of urban gardening can now talk knowledgeably about the best environment to grow plants at altitude because of the experimental planting they're doing in the training greenhouse. As well as doing planting themselves, the volunteers have been involved in training the women in different gardening techniques, as well as marketing their produce to various cafes and restaurants in La Paz. As a sideline to these activities, volunteers also go into children's centres run by the partner Aldeas SOS and teach children about healthy eating and nutrition. So I watched as they played games like "pin the udder on the cow" and sang songs about how carbohydrates giving you energy, before demonstrating with the breaking of polystyrene sheets what happens to your bones if you don't drink milk! 


Harriet and Archie check the plants' progress
Piloting innovative ways to keep the soil warm over night - rainwater in plastic bottles works!
Harriet soil sieving and worm rescuing
Learning about a balanced diet

Little girl in pink not so into the "plants grow tall" song
The other main project visit of the day was to an awareness-raising event for the parents of children at another centre, about the prevention of cervical, breast and prostate cancer as well as HIV/AIDS. The event was really well attended (14 women and 8 men) and as a result, most of the women committed to going to a health clinic for a pap test. ICS volunteers will be supporting this process as well as conducting more awareness-raising events.
Open discussion about prevention of cancers
Giving out leaflets after the event
While we were driving around La Paz, we also got to see the community volunteer zebras in action, a project that ICS is looking at working with next year. In short, young people hang around at zebra crossings, from time to time stopping the traffic (which is chaos in La Paz) and helping pedestrians cross safely. Perhaps the Bolivian equivalent of lollipop ladies?!




On the last day, I went just outside the city to Mallassa in the Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) where ICS volunteers are working with a local community-based organisation called Up Close Bolivia. It's a family-run Bolivian-British initiative with widespread community participation all based around a children's centre but also delivering projects in response to community need such as "Nuestro Espacio" (Our Space), a very similar initiative to one of the Tearfund projects in Cochabamba. Rather than paying to rent/build a permanent space, Nuestro Espacio works on the same basis as the recent London trend of pop up shops, using existing community infrastructure on a temporary basis in order to provide a safe space for children to go after school while their parents are still at work. At the children's centre, the mothers all contribute to the running of the centre ranging from a rota for baking bread to covering for the teachers/carers when they have to go into the city to get their wages. I've rarely seen such a genuine model of community participation and seeing it in action makes it clear how sustainable it is. Because Up Close is run by volunteers (including those with ICS) and doesn't pay any salaries, it's one of those small organisations where you can know that your money is going directly to the people who need it. So if you're looking for a project to support, either through volunteering or donating, I really recommend getting in touch with Emma and her husband Ronaldo: http://upclosebolivia.org/




At the end of the three days I wrapped up my time with International Service with a debrief meeting with their Country Director, followed by some horse riding on the ranch in Valle de las Flores just down from Mallassa and a fundraising pub quiz in La Paz where ICS volunteers raised money for Up Close Bolivia. 


Valle de las Flores - Valley of the flowers




With Naomi, one of International Service's Team Leaders, based with Up Close Bolivia

I've now got 3 hours to get some sleep before I have to get up at 1:30am for my 4:30am flight to Nicaragua via Colombia and Costa Rica. Not sure it was the most direct route, but pretty sure it was the cheapest!


Sunday, 3 November 2013

Isla del Sol - Lake Titicaca

I've just got back from an amazing weekend on Isla del Sol, an island in the middle of Lake Titicaca, the world's largest high-altitude lake which covers 8400 square km between Bolivia and Peru at a height of over 4000 metres. It really is one of the most incredible places I've ever been to. The nearest I can get to comparing it to anywhere else in the world is a high altitude version of a Greek island overlooking the Himalayas?! As they say here, "no hay palabras" (there are no words), so I'll let the photos do the talking...

Copacabana - the launch pad for trips to Isla del Sol
On the boat, nearly there. Excuse the terrible hat - that sun is stroooong!
Arriving on the southern part of the island
Sun and Moon islands - Aymara and Quecha creation story
Up the Escalera de Inca (at altitude-induced snail's pace)
Looking out at the Cordillera Real through Yumani village
Cordillera Real
Sunset...
Sunrise...
And THEY thank YOU for coming!

Looking out at...
...a Greek island?!
As the Lonely Planet says: For human/animal sacrifice... and nice picnics!
Exploring the Chincana ruins at 7am = no other tourists = happy Charlotte

Heading down to Cha'lla village
Peru in the distance

Freeeeeeeeeezing, but had to be done!

Post-hike afternoon of reading....
...and eating (trout from the lake)
Saints Day festival




Hiking down to the boat to go back to Copacabana 
Bizarre weather patterns on the way back to La Paz


Somewhere over the rainbow...

Friday, 1 November 2013

Tearfund Bolivia Project Visits in Cochabamba

After thirty-two hours of travel and transits, four stodgy aeroplane meals and one four hour delay, I finally arrived in Cochabamba in the Central Highlands region of Bolivia on Monday morning. I'm digging deep for my university Spanish which is hidden somewhere under some lukewarm French, patchy Sinhala and the odd word or two of Krio. I haven't actually been to South America since 2002 when I spent my final university summer in Ecuador. And I can definitely say that 10+ years on, it is NOT just like riding a bike!

For the last four days I've been visiting Tearfund Bolivia's ICS projects and meeting with the staff, volunteers and partner organisations in Cochabamba. Tearfund is one of ICS's eight delivery agencies, with volunteers currently in Rwanda, Burundi and Bolivia. My visit is broadly focused on providing programme quality support as well as capturing examples of good practice and (learning through) challenges that can then be shared across the consortium. The two main objectives for this visit were to explore Tearfund's model for shared working and learning between the British and Bolivian volunteers and to learn more about their education-focused projects, identifying ways in which they are impacting on the partner organisations and beneficiaries.



Cristo de la Concordia - apparently 44cm higher than the one in Rio de Janeiro.

My attempt at eating Cochabamba's traditional  "Sil Pancho". I managed about a sixth.

The current team of thirteen British volunteers and seven Bolivians are volunteering across three projects that are each linked to a local partner organisation. All three projects (and partners) target vulnerable children and young women, and are based around the theme of education but with additional outcomes including improved health (physical, mental and social), child protection and prevention/protection against domestic and sexual abuse. 

ICS volunteers based with the partner organisation "Oeser" divide their time between activities in the nursery and primary school in one of Cochabamba's poorest communities. I was shocked to find that Oeser transports the nursery school children in from the local prison where it is the norm for children to live with their parents. As well as providing general support to the staff and children, the ICS volunteers have been organising various activities largely linked to health and nutrition. While I was there they ran a variety of hygiene workshops, teaching the children how to clean their teeth, wash their hands and blow their noses.


Teeth cleaning...

Hand washing...

And nose blowing...

Just outside Cochabamba in the rural community's red light district, a small team of ICS volunteers are based at "Fortin de Niño" (aka "Children's Fort"). The parents of the children who come to the centre often work long hours (or even days at a time) away from home so the children are left to fend for themselves. The children receive at least one nutritious meal a day, receive homework help and extra classes such as English and computers. More than anything, the centre provides a safe place for them to come and escape their harsh day-to-day life and just be children, so sports activities and other games are also a regular feature.

The deserted streets around Fortin de Niño

Learning about the different parts of a computer (me included!)

The third project is based in the centre of Cochabamba, linked to the local partner organisation "Mosoj Yan". Divided between three main centres, the project mainly targets vulnerable girls and young women, including those living and working on the street and those who have been subject to domestic violence and/or sexual abuse. While I was there, the ICS volunteers organised an event to raise awareness about domestic violence and provide training on self-defence. Many of the local university students attended and as a result, signed up to take part in an action research study about bullying and violence in schools.

Self-defence workshop in one of the main squares in Cochabamba

Este no es Halloween - This isn't Halloween (see make-up).

Este es la vida real - This is real life.
I was really impressed by the dedication of all the volunteers in delivering such innovative activities (especially in the face of language barriers), and the hard work of David and Marco who work for Tearfund Bolivia and have built strong relationships with the partner organisations.

I'm now off to La Paz where I'll be visiting International Service's ICS projects next week, but before that I'm heading to Lake Titicaca for a weekend of high altitude boating and hiking....