Sunday, 3 November 2013

Isla del Sol - Lake Titicaca

I've just got back from an amazing weekend on Isla del Sol, an island in the middle of Lake Titicaca, the world's largest high-altitude lake which covers 8400 square km between Bolivia and Peru at a height of over 4000 metres. It really is one of the most incredible places I've ever been to. The nearest I can get to comparing it to anywhere else in the world is a high altitude version of a Greek island overlooking the Himalayas?! As they say here, "no hay palabras" (there are no words), so I'll let the photos do the talking...

Copacabana - the launch pad for trips to Isla del Sol
On the boat, nearly there. Excuse the terrible hat - that sun is stroooong!
Arriving on the southern part of the island
Sun and Moon islands - Aymara and Quecha creation story
Up the Escalera de Inca (at altitude-induced snail's pace)
Looking out at the Cordillera Real through Yumani village
Cordillera Real
Sunset...
Sunrise...
And THEY thank YOU for coming!

Looking out at...
...a Greek island?!
As the Lonely Planet says: For human/animal sacrifice... and nice picnics!
Exploring the Chincana ruins at 7am = no other tourists = happy Charlotte

Heading down to Cha'lla village
Peru in the distance

Freeeeeeeeeezing, but had to be done!

Post-hike afternoon of reading....
...and eating (trout from the lake)
Saints Day festival




Hiking down to the boat to go back to Copacabana 
Bizarre weather patterns on the way back to La Paz


Somewhere over the rainbow...

Friday, 1 November 2013

Tearfund Bolivia Project Visits in Cochabamba

After thirty-two hours of travel and transits, four stodgy aeroplane meals and one four hour delay, I finally arrived in Cochabamba in the Central Highlands region of Bolivia on Monday morning. I'm digging deep for my university Spanish which is hidden somewhere under some lukewarm French, patchy Sinhala and the odd word or two of Krio. I haven't actually been to South America since 2002 when I spent my final university summer in Ecuador. And I can definitely say that 10+ years on, it is NOT just like riding a bike!

For the last four days I've been visiting Tearfund Bolivia's ICS projects and meeting with the staff, volunteers and partner organisations in Cochabamba. Tearfund is one of ICS's eight delivery agencies, with volunteers currently in Rwanda, Burundi and Bolivia. My visit is broadly focused on providing programme quality support as well as capturing examples of good practice and (learning through) challenges that can then be shared across the consortium. The two main objectives for this visit were to explore Tearfund's model for shared working and learning between the British and Bolivian volunteers and to learn more about their education-focused projects, identifying ways in which they are impacting on the partner organisations and beneficiaries.



Cristo de la Concordia - apparently 44cm higher than the one in Rio de Janeiro.

My attempt at eating Cochabamba's traditional  "Sil Pancho". I managed about a sixth.

The current team of thirteen British volunteers and seven Bolivians are volunteering across three projects that are each linked to a local partner organisation. All three projects (and partners) target vulnerable children and young women, and are based around the theme of education but with additional outcomes including improved health (physical, mental and social), child protection and prevention/protection against domestic and sexual abuse. 

ICS volunteers based with the partner organisation "Oeser" divide their time between activities in the nursery and primary school in one of Cochabamba's poorest communities. I was shocked to find that Oeser transports the nursery school children in from the local prison where it is the norm for children to live with their parents. As well as providing general support to the staff and children, the ICS volunteers have been organising various activities largely linked to health and nutrition. While I was there they ran a variety of hygiene workshops, teaching the children how to clean their teeth, wash their hands and blow their noses.


Teeth cleaning...

Hand washing...

And nose blowing...

Just outside Cochabamba in the rural community's red light district, a small team of ICS volunteers are based at "Fortin de Niño" (aka "Children's Fort"). The parents of the children who come to the centre often work long hours (or even days at a time) away from home so the children are left to fend for themselves. The children receive at least one nutritious meal a day, receive homework help and extra classes such as English and computers. More than anything, the centre provides a safe place for them to come and escape their harsh day-to-day life and just be children, so sports activities and other games are also a regular feature.

The deserted streets around Fortin de Niño

Learning about the different parts of a computer (me included!)

The third project is based in the centre of Cochabamba, linked to the local partner organisation "Mosoj Yan". Divided between three main centres, the project mainly targets vulnerable girls and young women, including those living and working on the street and those who have been subject to domestic violence and/or sexual abuse. While I was there, the ICS volunteers organised an event to raise awareness about domestic violence and provide training on self-defence. Many of the local university students attended and as a result, signed up to take part in an action research study about bullying and violence in schools.

Self-defence workshop in one of the main squares in Cochabamba

Este no es Halloween - This isn't Halloween (see make-up).

Este es la vida real - This is real life.
I was really impressed by the dedication of all the volunteers in delivering such innovative activities (especially in the face of language barriers), and the hard work of David and Marco who work for Tearfund Bolivia and have built strong relationships with the partner organisations.

I'm now off to La Paz where I'll be visiting International Service's ICS projects next week, but before that I'm heading to Lake Titicaca for a weekend of high altitude boating and hiking....

Tuesday, 2 July 2013

VSO Tajikistan ICS in-country orientation

So it turns out "Varzob" does have a lot of "ob". In fact "Varz" means "full of". Only 15 minutes outside Dushanbe towards Khojand we were quickly into rolling hills/mountains with rivers and waterfalls lining the route. The actual training venue was right next to a lake which I ran around in the mornings before training began, making a nice change to my Davina McCall fitness DVD (which Habib did join me for one morning!)

The road to Varzob

Lots of ob!

Training venue in Varzob


View from the training venue

Location for my morning runs (-:

I arrived in Varzob with the in-country volunteers and an Afghan volunteer who'd flown in from Kabul in the night so that they could prepare a welcome for the UK volunteers who were catching up on sleep after their early morning arrival. I'm not sure their UK counterparts expected their first morning in Tajikistan to involve singing and dancing but they quickly got to know each other and were even exchanging ukulele tips in no time!






On the second day of the training, the volunteers split into different nationality groups and prepared presentations about their cultures. The group then looked more closely at case studies about the sensitivities involved in working in a multi-cultural team. After lunch the volunteers considered the opportunities and challenges associated with living in host homes and did some role plays about some common situations that may arise. They finished the day with group dicussions about group dynamics and how to resolve conflicts/difficult situations when working in a diverse team.

Tajik group present back about their culture

Host home role plays

On the third day the volunteers split into two groups, with the UK volunteers learning about the history of Tajikistan and the in-country volunteers learning about UK history. After being an observer for most of the training, I then got the chance to facilitate a pilot session on volunteer learning (linked to the focus of my visit). In order to help the volunteers personalise their learning they set three individual learning objectives that they will reflect on throughout the three month placement and beyond, taking a more proactive approach to their learning than has previously been the case. 


UK volunteers try to put the history of Tajikistan in chronological order


Afghan and Tajik volunteers discussing UK history

Facilitating the pilot session on volunteer learning

The  volunteer learning tree of individual learning objectives for the programme

Tomorrow the UK volunteers will be heading off to their host homes before beginning their in-community orientation with the in-country volunteers on Thursday, getting to know Dushanbe and their host families better before starting work on the project they'll be working on for the next three months - to organise and deliver a tourism festival in Dushanbe to promote tourism and increase employment. In the meantime I'm off to the VSO Tajikistan office for some staff meetings and training debriefs. It's been a fascinating visit in so many ways - just a shame I can't stay longer. Back in the VSO office in London for quarterly reporting deadlines on Monday....

VSO ICS Team Dushanbe, Summer 2013